Remove the Backhoe
To remove the Backhoe remove the bolts at the lower part of the bracket (there is a bar that crosses which I believe is to protect the hoses) and tap out the pins at the top of the bracket. The trick here I wish I knew was that the brackets have hooks at the bottom. I placed the bucket and book all the way extended out and on the ground. The backhoe needs to be lifted up (keep the hoses connected for this and you can use the stabilizer feet) and then drive the tractor forward. There are sleeves that would allow you to remove the backhoe brackets (left and right) from the front loader brackets but those are really frozen into mine so I will need to press them out.Here is a pic of the brackets. The bottom ones are hooks:
Remove the Front Loader
To remove the front loader I first removed the arms and bucket part. Obviously you have to disconnect fluid lines. I pulled the pins from the uprights and lift cylinders. With that removed I was able to remove each side independently. This will not drop off. You have to remove the arms from the front grill part. There are 2 bolts which hold a pin into a cup in the grill. Mine were rusted in there good so we used the Ford 8N and a chain, a 2 lb hammer and plenty of liquid wrench penetrating stuff. They eventually popped off. I will be cleaning these and applying something to prevent them from rusting in again. Once these are removed the bolts in the back can be removed and the assemblies will drop down. I had to lean mine out and removed the wheels and tires to get them out. They are heavy, especially since I couldn't take the backhoe brackets off.Remove Everything!
Now the fun part. I basically just started removing everything. I had to use a heavy duty impact gun for some of the bolts. You'll need some big sockets. One of the wheel hubs was tough to remove and the other would have fallen off. I had to purchase a new hub and will be doing some work on the axle to make it match the right side one.I ordered a long list of parts. As I removed things I would put anything broken in a basket and made sure to order those. Each day I would update a spreadsheet with the parts based on what I removed and the parts assemblies in the manual.
Tough to find Parts
Some of the parts were hard to track down. Be sure to download and print the parts manual and that will certainly help. The parts will span many models so the suppliers and sites I found often had them under a different model but the part numbers matched.Air Intake Elbow: Mine had a repair attempted it seems. That did not hold up. I found a 3 x 2 1/2 PVC Reducer will help you adapt from the blower to the pipe that comes from the cleaner.
Directional Reverser anything: My shift collar is broken and will need to be brazed. I was unable to locate one or a cross reference part even that would work.
Fluids
I did some digging to find out what fluids I should use. Here is what I settled on. There is plenty of debate here so I'll outline why I chose these types.Directional Reverser Housing: Type A ATF. These are wet clutches and the manual actually specified this type of fluid. This related to a Dexron ATF Fluid. My local NAPA dealer was helpful in explaining all the differences.
Final Drive: I settled on a SAE 90 gear oil here. The oil is shared between the transmission and the differential housing. I am in FL so heat is more of a concern than cold here so I wanted a thicker fluid so it would try to stay in and not sneak past seals and gaskets when it's 98 degrees outside.
